For 25 years, Chitose Abe has redefined punk femininity at Sacai. Is the world ready for her on a bigger stage?
Sitting with Chitose Abe over coffee at her hotel in New York, it’s clear that the designer behind Sacai has much to share. Fresh from a series of book launches, Abe is preparing to present her Spring 2025 collection in Paris, which promises to feature voluminous skirts and intricately crafted coats. Her smile beams with warmth and authenticity, a rare trait in the fashion industry.
Since founding Sacai in 1999, Abe has developed a unique language of hybridization that has redefined silhouettes and personal style. While most designers may rely on a signature aesthetic, Abe’s creations are a dynamic exploration of shapes, merging the masculine and feminine to craft something entirely new. From platform boots to the fusion of bomber jackets with feminine blouses, she has consistently pushed the boundaries of fashion.
“The most important is the balance,” Abe explains. This balance is evident in her designs, where sleek, tailored pieces blend seamlessly with unexpected elements. Her creative process is driven by the idea of combining contrasting elements to create innovative designs, allowing her to express diverse personalities through fashion.
As our conversation unfolds, Abe reveals a surprising passion: arranging flowers using Lego bricks. Her whimsical creations, which resemble stunning bouquets, embody her belief that even the mundane can be transformed into something beautiful. “It’s a metaphor,” she muses, acknowledging her talent for taking the ordinary and making it extraordinary.
Abe’s collaborations, from Nike to Jean Paul Gaultier, reflect her commitment to creativity over commercial success. She carefully selects partnerships that resonate with her vision, allowing her to remain authentic in an ever-changing industry. “Creativity is the most important aspect for Sacai,” her translator conveys, emphasizing that financial success is secondary to her artistic integrity.
As she navigates her career, Abe remains focused on what inspires her rather than trends or industry buzz. With a new office in Paris and a growing presence in the fashion world, one can’t help but wonder what secrets she may still hold. For now, Abe continues to craft a narrative of hybrid elegance that captivates and inspires.
